Saul Nash delves into ancient Black folklore, and more fashion news
Ellie Goldstein is iconised by adidas, while BUTT makes a comeback
Ritualistic dressing has been a driving force of Saul Nash’s work ever since he graduated from the Royal College of Art in 2018. With pull cords, twisted zips, and modular components, the act of wearing or engaging with his clothing requires process and practice. The designer approaches fashion as more than mere ephemera, exploring how certain items are habiltually worn, how design interacts with daily life. His shows, so often made up of throngs of languid dancers, are cult-like in how they come together – and his AW22 offering was no different.
Nash debuted his collection, dubbed Ritual, with a catwalk show and accompanying short film, set in the watering hole of a Black barbershop in Kensal Rise. Chosen for its community-binding atmosphere, Nash delves into the folklore and spirituality of his Guyanese upbringing, producing Yemaya mermaid prints on techy zip-ups, jacquard tops, and track pants, while making his first foray into tailoring, cut from combat wool, with detachable sleeves, hoods, and press-stud fastenings. Elsewhere, Nash’s signature sportswear courses over the body with careening seams and panel pieces, much of which can be removed and repositioned as per the wearer’s own personal rituals.
In other news this week, New York Fashion Week christened the AW22 womenswear season, with cameos from Julia Fox at LaQuan Smith and just about everyone else at Collina Strada, while No Agency decided to quit the schedule altogether (kind of). Elsewhere, Tremaine Emory was made creative director of Supreme and, across the pond, Molly-Mae unofficially kicked off London Fashion Week as protestors gathered outside her not so pretty little fashion show. For everything else that may have passed you by, click through the gallery below.