From Broccoli to Baguettes: your guide to everything going down at NYFW
The SS23 womenswear season has kicked off in the Big Apple, with shows from Fendi, Eckhaus Latta, Collina Strada, and Luar all on the agenda
As the saying goes: it’s always fashion week somewhere, baby! Across the summer, the likes of Berlin, Copenhagen, and Madrid played host to their own events, as designers including Jade Cropper, PLN, and Latimmier sent what they’d been working on the past six month down the runway. Now, though, it’s time for the big four, with the SS23 shows kicking off in New York this weekend. With the city palpably buzzing with excitement for the days to come, Dazed is on the ground to bring you everything you need to see right here, on TikTok, and Instagram.
New York really feels like it’s left the pandemic behind this season, and in light of that Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez seemingly wanted to pull out all the stops. Always a major show on the city’s schedule, this season Proenza Schouler sent things stratospheric as it enlisted a mammoth cast of bona fide fashion superstars. Out first was Arca, who stomped through the cavernous show space in a cut-off cropped vest and a voluminous bubble skirt, closely followed by Kendall Jenner who served body in a slinky white crocheted slip. Joining them was Bella Hadid, Vittoria Ceretti, and runway legend Shalom Harlow, in a succession of polka dot, jewel embellished coats and slick tailoring finished with playful flourishes: this super-wide, swishy flares and cascading Flamenco dancer-esque sleeves. Special mention goes out to the vertiginous, sculptural heels: blown up and mega-clompy in stature, the ballooning style was essentially fashion catnip for an ugly shoe aficionado like me.
If there’s one designer the NYC crowd is going to schlep out to a Brooklyn Greenway nature reserve at rush hour on a Friday for, it’s Hillary Taymour. Naturally, the show didn’t disappoint. As the sun began to set over the city, casting a hazy glow across the overgrown reeds and wildflowers the catwalk snaked around, the Collina Strada founder turned out a psychedelic, sustainability-centric collection that transcended time. Where previous offerings have been full of charmingly cobbled-together hanky skirts, hoodies, and oversized tees, this time things felt a lot more polished and slick – but in no way any less eclectic (shout-out to the Swarovski crystal-trimmed broccoli one model toted here). At the dressier end of the scale, there were were dip-dyed silk corsets paired with pannier skirts, bustling gowns with snatched waists, and boxy shirts with hems that cascaded into waterfalls of ruffles, alongside the usual kooky tees bearing the contents of your average fruit bowl (which brought to mind that iconic SS04 Chloé collection) bold batik flares, and slinky slips with straps that attached to the model’s nipple rings. As ever, casting called together Taymour’s eclectic community, with Alva Claire, Hari Nef, Aaron Philip, and Ella Emhoff all fluttering round the catwalk like cute Collina Strada butterflies.
The internet began whispering about a Kim Jones x Marc Jacobs collab a few months back, but it wasn’t until last week it was confirmed. In celebration of 25 years of the Fendi Baguette, the house switched out Milan for New York to stage a very special SS23 Resort show, as longtime friends Jones and Jacobs debuted their top secret anniversary offering. Needless to say, it was a major moment, particularly as it marked Linda Evangelista’s long-awaited return to the runway – the iconic, OG supermodel who recently starred in Fendi’s AW22 campaign stepped into a minty-fresh opera coat and silver gloves, and slipped a crystal-encrusted Baguette up her arm to close the show. Alongside endless iterations of the bag turned out – including blown-up sequinned versions, and teeny-tiny mini ones strung from belt loops and necklaces – the Marc Jacobs segment stole the show. Huge fluffy hats were matched with uber-cosy robe style coats that mashed up the designer’s signature logo with that of Fendi’s à la Jones’ blockbuster Versace collab. Question is, now he’s linked up with Marc and Donatella, who’s next on the agenda?