Plissé Please! Why the Cool, Crinkled Fabric Is More Appealing Than Ever

Issey Miyake officially launched his Pleats Please line in Spring Summer 1994—a collection of plissé (or pleated) fabrics cut into every which way. 27 years later, the textile feels as fresh as ever. In fact, the lightweight, loose-fitting, wrinkle-proof fabric was used in a handful of spring collections, most notably in Versace’s sea-centric show in the form of bouncy tube dresses and elaborately printed tops. It also made more minimalist appearances at It brands like Dion Lee and Nanushka. The season showcased many interesting textures, creases, and crafty fabrics—plissé included—in a trend dubbed “Surface Interest” by Vogue Runway.

As many of us are looking to dress up again while keeping comfortable, what better time to consider an outfit that balances function and fashion? And what textiles does that better than micro pleats? “I love plissé because it is soft avant-garde. You are giving a look without sacrificing comfort”, says Vogue market editor Alexandra Gurvitch. “My personal favorite Pleats Please set is my vintage black plissé turtleneck; with pointed shoulders and a matching ankle-length skirt, it makes me feel like a comfortable fashion witch.”

Though, if spring’s expressive prints and stand-out colors are more your mood, there’s a plissé style for that—from Cult Gaia’s voluminous peachy satin top to Julia Heuer’s wavy statement prints, which use the Japanese shibori technique to pleat. These pieces have the post-pandemic benefit of being stretchy, sleek, and even sexy all at the same time—pending on the silhouette like, say, Versace’s mini dress or Khaite’s bralette top. Though, there are also pieces for everyday wear, such as a swingy short set from Rebecca Taylor or Issey Miyake’s sleeveless top. Each brings luxurious leisurewear to a whole new level.

Shop spring’s best plissé pieces below.