How Will We Dress in the Future? These Central Saint Martins Students Have the Answers
With a reputation for consistently producing some of the most influential players in the field of fashion—Phoebe Philo, John Galliano, Riccardo Tisci, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, and Grace Wales Bonner to name a few—London fashion college Central Saint Martins has been a crucial source of talent to the fashion industry since it was founded in 1854.
“Fashion at CSM is not just about clothes,” says program director for fashion Hywel Davies. “We aim to be at the heart of the debate about the future of fashion. We developed our reputation for excellence by supporting students to develop their own individual voice, and by doing this, they find their own authentic narrative.”
Despite the second lockdown in place across England, schools and universities will stay open. So, after months of remote coursework, Zoom tutorials, and pattern cutting on kitchen tables, the fashion students of CSM are finally able to return to their Granary Square HQ in London’s Kings Cross, providing they adhere to safety precautions, of course. So how does it feel to be physically back at fashion school? And with the college’s students also widely celebrated for their experimental personal style, quite importantly, what does one wear to mark the moment?
Vogue spoke to 14 students on the challenges of studying remotely, what they love about Central Saint Martins, and what they chose to wear on their first day back.
Yashana Malhotra, 24, BA, fashion womenswear, year three
Describe your look.
“I constructed my dress out of a curtain.”
What do you love about CSM?
“The freedom. I love that nothing is ever too much, and you can always go crazier.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“I look forward to being surrounded again by other creatives. There’s a certain energy that I’ve never felt anywhere else.”
Which movie sums up your 2020?
“Ari Aster’s Midsommar (2019).”
Aminat Damilola Seriki, 21, BA, fashion design with marketing, year two
Describe your look.
“I am wearing a Paolina Russo reflective cropped knit [from her Adidas collaboration], a black denim Miss Sixty miniskirt, an ASOS woolly jumper, and Buffalo shoes.”
What do you love about CSM?
“For a long time, I found it difficult to express myself until I came here.”
What were the challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Not having access to a printer.”
Which album sums up your 2020?
“Heaven to a Tortured Mind by Yves Tumor.”
Feranmi Eso, 20, BA, fashion communication and promotion, year two
Describe your look.
“I’m wearing a Stefan Cooke knit, vintage gray trousers, and derbys from Eytys.”
What do you love about CSM?
“The lessons I learn from casual conversations.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“New, but also familiar.”
Which song sums up your 2020?
“‘Tangerine Dreams’ by Ojerime.”
Thomas Spooner, 19, BA, fashion design with knit, year one
Describe your look.
“I’m wearing boots by Acne Studios, Zara women trousers, [an] Eton shirt, a coat that’s factory seconds, and my grandfather’s passed-down tie and camera case.”
What do you love about CSM?
“I love the working life here. I’m at my best when working, so to have somewhere that constantly pushes and asks for more is perfect.”
Which song sums up your 2020?
“‘Break Away’ by the Beach Boys.”
Freyja Newsome, 22, BA, fashion knitwear, year three
Describe your look.
“I’m dressing for the apocalypse. Precautionary, of course, but it’s good to be prepared.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“Wait, what, I’m really here?! I thought this was a VR headset.”
What were the challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“It’s like asking someone to ride a bicycle when their tires have been stolen.”
Which song sums up your 2020?
“‘The Downward Spiral’ by Nine Inch Nails.”
Maz Taymani, 20, BA, fashion history and theory, year two
Describe your look.
“I wear a smorgasbord of vintage, which I also sell.”
What do you love about CSM?
“The huge mix of creative talent and the ease of interdisciplinary collaboration.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Learning has become an individual and lonely experience. For a creative, education is visceral and tactile—two things Zoom just can’t replicate.”
Which song sums up your 2020?
“‘Song for Insane Times’ by Kevin Ayers.”
Jessica Gianelli (left), 25, MA, fashion communication, year one, and Stephanie Francis-Shanahan (right), 25, MA, fashion communication, year one
Describe your look.
Gianelli: “Low-key bad girl princess, to be described later.”
Francis-Shanahan: “I tend to dress like a 10-year-old.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
Gianelli: “Unreal, to be honest. It’s all been a bit ghostly and weird…”
Francis-Shanahan: “I find it a really relaxed place energy-wise, but also focused and filled with lots of people who care about what they make.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
Gianelli: “The lack of energetic exchange and canteen chats to break up the stress.”
Francis-Shanahan: “The work for me wasn’t so much the issue—it was more the not having a physical community that I found the hardest.”
Which movie sums up your 2020?
Gianelli: “Either Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind (2004) or The Truman Show (1998)—equal parts Jim Carrey, psycho trip, yet ironically comical.”
What song sums up your 2020?
Francis-Shanahan: “‘Move on Up’ by Curtis Mayfield.”
Steven Chevallier, 24, BA, fashion knitwear, year three
Describe your look.
“I’m wearing vintage black sweats, a bomber jacket, shoes, and this weird cowboy vest from a charity shop. The printed floral trousers I made myself.”
What do you love about CSM?
“CSM has a positive influence on the next generation—it helps develop creativity and teaches people to be open-minded and tolerant.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Being alone for a long time can be a challenge.”
Which movie sums up your 2020?
“Any Gaspar Noé movie.”
Lucile Guilmard, 23, MA, fashion, year two
Describe your look.
“I’m wearing toile trousers from my MA current collection development, a jacket from Antonio Castro, a Johanna Parv necklace, and Dr. Martens shoes.”
What do you love about CSM?
“The freedom, acceptance, and celebration of being different.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“Regressive in a way. Change needs to occur—there’s no going back to before as the norm has evolved.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Dealing with myself and not being surrounded by other creatives; but fashion exists in the present, so if you can’t adapt, what are you doing here?”
Huguette Tchiapi Kameni, 20, BA, menswear, year two
Describe your look.
“A pair of chunky brown biker boots I got secondhand off eBay, but everything else is from charity shops. I made the gray woolen bag.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“It gets me into the mindset to work, and it’s nice to see all of my friends. But I do miss the bustling corridors where I’d stare at people’s outfits.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Finding good original research imagery was difficult—I never realized how helpful the library was.”
What song sums up your 2020?
“‘After Image’ by Toe, an instrumental that’s only four minutes but feels like forever, which is what 2020 has felt like.”
Alex Soroka, 20, BA, fashion communication and promotion, year two
Describe your look.
“I wanted to take this opportunity to show off some in-house talent. My top is by Greg Harrison, and the crossbody bag by Luke Goldblatt, both second-year womenswear students. Jeans are thrifted, and the shoes are Nike Air Jordan 1s.”
What do you love about CSM?
“The people. It’s refreshing to talk to those who are so passionate about what they do.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“It doesn’t even feel real to be back in the building!”
What show sums up your 2020?
“Channel 4’s Come Dine With Me.”
Ranura Edirisinghe, 25, MA, fashion, year two
Describe your look.
“Don’t look at me—look at my work!”
What do you love about CSM?
“It’s such a microcosm of what’s relevant for today—you are free to do anything you wish, but in a disciplined framework.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“It’s a strange feeling. I don’t want to get too comfortable.”
What movie sums up your 2020?
“Steven Soderbergh’s Contagion (2011), obviously.”
Joe Bromley, 20, BA, fashion journalism, year one
Describe your look.
“Western-style trousers from Calvin Klein found on TK Maxx [the British TJ Maxx] online, New Rock boots, a black polo neck, overcoat, and Vivienne Westwood plastic pearl earrings.”
What do you love about CSM?
“Walking through the fashion studios gives you a buzz.”
How does it feel to physically be back at university?
“The library is an old friend I’m looking forward to reconnecting with. Everyone is fed up of reading a book as a PDF.”
What were some challenges of doing college projects remotely?
“Online research. You don’t know how much further things could have been taken if we were doing 12-hour library shifts.”
